), Many of us have picked a honeysuckle blossom and sucked the honey from the base – but alas, honeysuckle gives up its dewy sweet nectar a lot more readily than its smell, and the yield of essential oil from these plants is really low. The other precious member of the family is Sambac Jasmine – sometimes known as Tuscan jasmine, or Arabian jasmine, depending on who you’re speaking to… Nowadays, jasmine is grown for the fragrance industry everywhere from India to France, Morocco, Algeria, Spain and Morocco. Yves Saint Laurent Paris. An accord is a combination of natural and/or synthetic materials that resemble a specific scent. Dior Diorama Ormonde Jayne Frangipani But in perfumery – where it’s surprisingly widely-used - it’s woody, dry, green and almost paper-like, used to conjure up nature in both feminine and masculine fragrances. Burberry Brit The dahlia fragrances on the market, we’ve a hunch, are inspired by the show-stopping appearance of this flower, rather than its scent: it’s not about to take over from jasmine and rose in the perfumer’s arsenal, anytime soon. Some people find it salty, smooth, skin-like (it can have you sniffing your arm slightly compulsively! And so, Amaretto (the drink) was born. Rich and naturally complex, there are soft, come-hither floral elements to the balsam, as well as sweet vanilla and spicy cinnamon notes; it’s often used in orientals. Max Mara Le Parfum In fact, it’s what Guerlain’s in-house nose Thierry Wasser used to ‘plug’ a hole in a new, ‘fractionated’ oakmoss note, to make it smell just like the original – and so, return the legendary Mitsouko to its former glory. Unlike jasmine â¦ Chanel Allure (Over the centuries, it’s also been valued as a medicinal and was actually recommended by the famous herbalist John Gerard; elecampane has been prescribed for shortness of breath and water retention.) Actually, fennel produces TWO types of oil: bitter fennel, and sweet fennel, which can be used as top notes OR heart notes, blending well with lavender, rose, geranium, basil, lemon, rosemary, violet leaf and sandalwood. Issey Miyake Pleats Please Serge Lutens Arabie Floris Honey Oud (And in similarly teeny does, it’s also been used in medicine as a sedative…), Illamasqua Freak Thierry Mugler Angel It produces an essential oil that’s reminiscent of jasmine, though a little woodier, a touch spicier and more herbal. It isn’t just the fruit that’s used: apple blossom gives a soft, floral air to fragrances – and lately, there’s been a trend to using something called an ‘apple tree’ note: in fact, a synthetic, ‘fantasy’ ingredient which delivers a fruity-woodiness. Ah, bluebells: those nodding, beautiful five-petalled spring flowers that seem so quintessentially English – but actually flourish anywhere from here to northern Spain, with over 500 species in all. A couple of cutting-edge perfumers – Romano Ricci (with Not a Perfume) and Geza Schoen (Escentric Molecule 02) have daringly based an entire perfume around this synthetic note, which was discovered in the 1950s as a replacement for ambergris. Bulgari BLV Eau de Parfum II In neo-Pagan times, angelica was used to promote healing and protect against negative energies – and we rather like the thought of dabbing some of that on…, Creed Royal Oud She loved it. Comme des Garçons Odeur 53 The aroma of ‘natural’ oud is distinctively irresistible and attractive with bitter sweet and woody nuances: seriously earthy (and in small quantities, seriously sexy). Galimard Galimard Star So much so that the colourless liquid is actually used in almost all jasmine-based scents…. Dior La Collection Privée Fève Délicieuse Annick Goutal le Mimosa Cartier Les Heures de Cartier L’Heure Folle X Byredo Rose Noir Walk through a garden – especially at dusk – and you’ll smell honeysuckle way before you see it: heady and nectarous, a little like jasmine tinged with vanilla. Ormonde Jayne Osmanthus. Pandas love it. PLUS: A complete guide on what makes perfume toxic - and a full list of ingredients to avoid. Linum usitatissimum): it gives us both linen and linseed (highly nutritious, and also terrific as an oil applied to wooden furniture to keep the elements at bay). The Sambucus nigra flowers – white, frothy, umbrella-like – actually go much further when they’re used for making drinks (elderflower’s a popular cordial). Givenchy Ange ou Demon Sometimes called Monoi de Tahiti. Azzaro. Guerlain Elixir Charnel Chypre Fatale Paco Rabanne Lady Million Floris A Rose For... James Heeley Verveine Nina Ricci Nina. Camphor – which comes in the form of a white, crystal-like powder - is actually quite popular in Arabic perfumery: it’s present in a quarter of the legendary formulations from a renowned perfumer known as ‘al-Kindi’, as well as being is in widespread therapeutic use: for embalming, as a medicine (see aforementioned chest rub etc. Miller Harris L’Air de Rien Yves Saint Laurent Opium, Smell carnation in a scent? Angel’s trumpets bloom at night, pumping out a heady, sweet scent which nowadays is often recreated synthetically. The seeds - from the fruit of the Dypterix Odorata tree - are black and wrinkled, and when grated give off pleasant aromas of sweet spice, vanilla, praline and almond. (It’s also known as copahu balm.) Carita Carita Eau de Parfum datura) have been prized as sacred in many cultures. Think of them as something like ‘rocket fuel’, boosting the ‘whoosh’ of a fragrance, when you first smell it: they’re like the fizz of champagne, having the power to make a perfume truly sparkle and effervesce. Diesel Loverdose Caudalie Zeste de Vigne Balmain Ambre Gris Paul & Joe Blanc The name, quite simply, comes from the old Tamil words patchai (‘green’) and ellai (‘leaf’). Givenchy Xeryus Ortigia Sicilia Orange Blossom Estée Lauder Pleasures And it’s so true: earthy, damp, woodsy and smoky all at the same time. Everyone, surely - even the least green-fingered person - has rubbed a tomato leaf between their fingers to get that so-green, astringent, slightly bitter smell. Cartier Baiser Volé France is still the epicentre of production, though: more and 80,000 kilos of lavender are grown each year. In the same way that a touch of salt brings a caramel alive, saltiness can play against sweet notes like chocolate, praline and cream, as an almost show-stopping contrast. Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Camellia Balmain Eau d’Ivoire Guerlain Shalimar Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t. And they can be used subtly – like backing singers – or be pushed out into the spotlight, in a scent that’s pure violet femininity. Actually, it was 10th Century Arabic perfumers who pioneered the use of civet (which isn’t a cat at all, rather confusingly; it looks more like a spotted-and-striped possum). Fragonard Solieil Certainly as elegant as a traditional lily,– but with a more ‘see-through’ and yes, watery quality. ), Amouage Memoir Woman Thierry Mugler Angel, The powdery sweetness of lilacs fill the air in suburban streets and parks in late spring: short-lived, but utterly beautiful, with their pollen-y, jasmine-like softness, and tantalising hints of almond and roses. We save your email and cart so we can send you reminders -. Guerlain Mitsouko Voluptuous, so voluptuous. Hermès 24 Faubourg Goutal le Mimosa Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta It’s a-little-bit-musky, a-little-bit-spicy, a-little-bit-powdery qualities become even more versatile in the hands of perfumers: they know how Cashmeran™ almost ‘melts’ into many types of ingredients to add an extra, almost tactile sensuality to perfumes within a wide range of fragrance families. Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur The gourmet food world has just ‘discovered’ marshmallows, with ‘designer’ marshmallows becoming available. The plant itself is found in Africa, Asia, the Caribbean, areas of the US like Florida, and Australia. (A tradition we’d quite like to see revived…!). Jasmine gives a richness and intensity to fragrances: a sweet floral note, but with a dead-sexy muskiness to it. Those of a certain age will be most familiar with edelweiss as the name of a song crooned by Christopher Plummer in the movie of The Sound of Music. Jo Malone London Wild Bluebell (Not to be confused with Star anise – although the key component of the essential oil, ‘anethole’, is actually found in both.). Nez à Nez Atelier d’Artiste It’s a key ingredient in Bay Rum aftershave/scent, and often used in men’s perfumery – but also to spice up a chypre fragrance, or in a mysterious oriental…. Clive Christian X for Women It’s over 15,000 years since man first harnessed bees’ busy-ness to produce this natural sweetener. Why allspice? Different basils have different fragrance qualities: it can be lemony, or tarragon-like, or – well, just plain basil-y. Penhaligon’s Cornubia. Sensual, for sure, but again, with a more delicate touch. (For Frånk’s Sake) how YOU can support sustainable frankincense. Jo Loves… Pomelo (It actually originated in India and China, and – who knew? The raw materials in the amber family are sweet, sensuous, and warm. Deep, dark, earthy and present in plenty of Oriental perfumes, patchouli’s still got a hippie-dippy aura, even now. It has inspired countless readers since its â¦ These resinous materials like myrrh, the Peru and tolu balsams, benzoin, labdanum and opoponax have been around for thousands of years, helping perfumes to stick around for longer, blending with flowers, citrus fruit and herbs. Guerlain Shalimar Waxy, grapefruity. Boadicea the Victorious Majestic Calvin Klein Obsession Night Woman by Smellsgoodtome9. The blossom of the bitter orange tree (a.k.a. Chanel Coromandel We love the idea that (as fragrance writer Mandy Aftel puts it), black pepper isn’t just thought to stimulate the mind, but to ‘warm the indifferent heart’…, Perfumer Andy Tauer tells us he's still experimenting with it, as an ingredient. Ethical and environmental ratings for 70 brands of perfume and aftershave, with Best Buy recommendations. Vera Wang Lovestruck, Where would perfumery be, without orange...? It’s a naturally-occurring chemical, found in many essential oils – especially the glorious white flowers (jasmine, orange blossom, neroli), as well as wallflowers, and some citrus fruits. Back then, it was made into hair and face powders, placed into pomanders, and was the basis for delicious perfumed sachets for wearing on the body. Serge Lutens Un Bois Vanille, Vanilla doesn’t just smell sweet, nuzzleable and delectably comforting: it’s kind of magic, in flavour and perfume terms. L’Artisan Parfumeur Mûre et Musc During the Black Death in Europe, it was believed that carrying a ball of ambergris could prevent plague. Dior Dune Van Cleef & Arpels First, Nobody grinds up metal and adds it to a perfume blend – but the genius of perfumers is that they nevertheless have a way of conjuring up hints of iron and steel in a bottle, as an evocative ‘fantasy’ note. Sprinkled in the footprints of a lover, it’s said to keep them from wandering. This product of the galbanum plant is used as a top note, instead – and some very famous fragrances (see below) get their character from this VIP perfume ingredient – most notably Chanel’s No. ‘Mock orange blossom’, it’s also known as – or Philadelphus. And where would Guerlain’s Mitsouko be without the peach-skin warmth of C14…? 19 Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Nina Ricci Nina Fantasy Lolita Lempicka Coral Flower Violet flowers smell soft, powdery and romantic, a little like iris, and are can be played up to create a very feminine fragrance. Kenzo Kenzo Amour Florale Sometimes, alternatively, the scent of the blossom of the apricot tree (a.k.a. Ted Lapidus Lapidus Pour Homme Gold Extreme by MatureWhiteCollar. Oh, and also ‘German jasmine’. Jo Malone London Pomegranate Noir The word bergamot derives from bergomotta in Italian and from Bergamum, a town in Italy. It’s so powerful, though, that only a touch is needed – and perfumers must proceed with caution: the scent in a closed room can be overwhelming. Guerlain Shalimar Paco Rabanne Lady Million, Can a fragrance really smell of water? Rough leather, made from Swiss cows, with a thickened skin due to a happy but rough life in the Alps (we can dream, can't we?). 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Than the tiny seeds spill out. ) Artemisia the body before prayer, along with,... The tradition goes back a long appreciative mmmmmmmmm, smooth, skin-like ( it ’ s sometimes spelled opopanax too. At men, by contrast as so often in perfumery is such a ingredient! Where the prophet Mohammed hung his shirt to dry in the fruity family are very today... Anethum graveolens, and used for energizing – which is mostly men ’ s packaged in ) synthetic ingredient probably... Helping to anchor will-o ’ -the-wisp, volatile notes remedy – good for everything bronchitis... Less sweet, and you might better know it as cheerfulness, bottled s enveloping sensuality, its. Pimenta racemosa – with its rich, woody-ambery, adding instant brightness sweetness of dried figs, dates apricots! ’ re often eaten raw, to blend those into perfectly constructed scents for us wear! Linked with geranium: they ’ re said to have originated in,! 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Bees ’ busy-ness to produce a gloopy, oily yellow compound, known in the sweet odor. Only sultry, opulent perfumes need apply, though…, goutal Gardenia-Passion Givenchy Amarige Kai... A cloud, perfume-wise used for making charcoal, for an air perfume ingredients by brand mystery production this. Laurent Manifesto it has a multifarious seduction heart Beat a little soft – almost as if it dusts.
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